Say you’ve been in Paris for a few days and are looking to get out of the city for a short weekend trip. There are a myriad of interesting day/weekend trips just outside of the city, Tours, Orleans, Fontainebleau, or the Loire Valley, etc. With so many options, selecting where to go can be challenging. Why not a weekend (or day trip) to France’s famous Champagne region? France is synonymous with world class wines. The laws surrounding the production of wine in France are very strict, requiring farmers in their region to grow specific grapes while also adhering to government regulated cultivation practices. This is what is called the AOC (appellation d’origine controlée) and this determines what grapes are grown in which regions and how their wines are to be produced. France is particularly coveted for their high-quality sparkling wines known as champagne, named for the region in which it is grown. Note: only sparkling wine from this region is allowed to be called champagne, all others must use different terminology.
There are two major towns in the Champagne region of France: Reims (The capital of Champagne), and Epernay. Both are about an hour to ninety minutes outside of Paris by train. Ticket prices do vary, normally between 30 and 70 euros each way, depending on departure times. There is an express train that will take you directly to Reims in under fifty minutes from Gare de l’Est for around the same price. Check out the national train systems website, www.sncf.com, for train times and prices. Both Reims and Epernay are beautiful cities, and you would have a wonderful time staying in either. However, I prefer staying in Reims for a couple of reasons. The first reason is the access from the city. Even though they are only 30 minutes from each other and on the same train, the times run much more frequently to Reims than they do to Epernay. I also like the vibrancy of Reims; there is always an event going on in the city, or a new restaurant to discover. The availability of places to stay for a good deal is a big draw as well. I find Reims slightly less expensive than Epernay.
Once you leave the train station it is just a 10–15-minute walk to the center of town through a beautiful park and then down a large pedestrian only cobblestone avenue lines with restaurants and cafes, at the end of which is marked by an old fashion carousel next to a beautifully modern fountain, or you can take a five-minute taxi and still see all this stuff once you drop your bags. Reims is full of affordable apartments to rent for a night or two right in the heart of the city. Most of the time, I prefer to stay in an apartment. because I have more freedom and flexibility in an apartment as opposed to a hotel, but you do you. Stay where you are most comfortable. There are plenty of lovely hotels in the city as well. Hotels here range from approximately $165 at Ibis Styles Hotel to upwards of $300 at hotels Like the Hotel Bristol Reims or Hotel La Caserne Chanzy. I usually look for an apartment that is under $150 per night for 2 people on sites like Airbnb or VRBO. $75 per person, per night for accommodation is a not a bad deal when staying in France.
The ideal weekend getaway to champagne is two nights. You will not be able to get to both Reims and Epernay in one day. I like to try and get there around lunch time the first day. After checking in, a substantial lunch is in order before going out and drinking a bunch of champagne. Louise is my absolute favorite creperie/restaurant anywhere. I dream about it when I am not there. I will make a trip to Reims specifically to have a full day, lunch and dinner, indulging in deliciously savory galettes and decadent sweet crepes. The food is spectacular, the décor is whimsical and fun, and the staff are simply phenomenal. I eat here at least twice every time that I visit Reims. A few other restaurants that are worth a try for both lunch and dinner are L’Edito, Le Tablier Reims, Canard Street, and Le Millenaire, all located within walking distance if staying in the city center.
Most of us are going to Champagne to taste some champagne.
Once you have had a decent meal (make sure to leave room for
the champagne), you will probably want to start enjoying some
delicious bubbly. The city of Reims is home to some of the most
renowned champagne producers in the industry. Tattinger,
Pommery, Louis Roderer, and Veuve Cliquot all have caves and
tasting rooms here. If you have never been on a tour of the caves,
try and make it a point to schedule one of them, most of them
seem to be reopening in 2024. It is really educational to see, firsthand,
the history of the champagne making process. If you feel like you just want to do a tasting and do not need the tour, most champagne houses have a room where you can try some of their wines for anywhere from 25 to 45 euros. Make sure to limit yourself to how many champagne houses you visit in one day, three usually is my max for a day. No one is trying to be that person who embarrasses themselves in the middle of what is supposed to be a cultural experience. You should be feeling just fine after two or three tastings. Then it’s time to find a good pastry shop to cop some amazing French desserts to enjoy after having done your fair share of people watching while enjoying a pleasant dinner al fresco on the wide, Parisian streets of old Reims.
If champagne is not your thing, there are plenty of things to do in the region that have nothing to do with drinking at all. The Cathedral Notre Dame de Reims is a magnificent sight to see, you can even take a tour up to the roof where you can see out on to the city. This is where every single king of France was ever crowned, and where Joan of Arc pledged her allegiance to the church during the Hundred Years War. There is a statue dedicated to her in the square adjacent to the Cathedral. Basilica St. Remi is another prominent church in the city to see. Its connected history museum makes the trip even more informative. I also think that the Porte de Mars (The Largest Arc de Triomphe in the known roman world) is really cool and historical to see. It is free and located in the park that lines the exit of the train station. The list goes on and is the same for Epernay. There are plenty of things to do in these two beautiful cities beyond drinking bubbles. But for those of that do enjoy the bubbles, the champagne is the main draw, and the history, culture, and gastronomy are all wonderful bonus’.
On the second day, after breakfast, hop on the train to Epernay. It is about a 40-minute ride on a local train through the regional natural park that divides the two cities. In Epernay you can walk down Champagne Avenue and enjoy dégustation after dégustation (tasting) in many of the local champagne houses as well as indulge in a few of the larger names like Pol Roger and Moet et Chandon. They are often less expensive and quite delicious as well. A particular favorite of mine is Champagne Collard Picard, just up the block from Moet. Here the tasting includes 3 full glasses of champagne with two different pricing options. They also have snacks to enjoy with your champagne in their shaded courtyard that overlooks the tree lined avenue. I always make it a point to stop here just because it’s casual and comfortable with no gimmicks. Champagne Esterlin is another great stop along your stroll on the Avenue of Champagne. Their staff is amazing. There are so many places to visit in such a short distance (5 blocks max), you will really want to pick and choose just a few rather than trying to get through as many as possible. Again, no one is trying to get sick on the train ride back to Reims.
Once you have fully enjoyed your day in Epernay don’t forget to get back to the train station before the last train to Reims leaves. It can be as early as 7pm some days. It’s time to get back and have a good meal by now anyway, either at home or at one of the many delicious restaurants that await your doorstep. If the mood strikes and you want to go out for a little nightlife after dinner, there is usually some kind of music event going on somewhere in the city center. Tomorrow finishes off the weekend and most have to get back to the city or move on to the next destination. SO, enjoy your last night in champagne. It’s been a good weekend and you deserved it
